Saturday, October 31, 2009

Better Beyond Cairo

Michelle and Craig’s thoughts:

Happy Halloween!!!

We are now at the end of our Egypt trip and it is time to reflect on our adventure in this country. Since leaving Cairo, the trip has been more relaxing. It started in the small village of Abu Simbel, where there were very few vendors and touts to harass us, and visiting the sites at a quiet time was a bonus. Then we went to Aswan and stayed at the Pyramisa Isis Island hotel which was a fantastic getaway from the hustle and bustle in the city. We had two days of relaxation by the pool and no early wake ups in order to visit a site (it’s always better to see the outdoor sites in the early morning or mid-afternoon to escape the heat and beating sun or try to). We always made sure we had down time in our trips to recover from baking in the sun all day. Being on the island was a wonderful treat and the people on the island were very nice and welcoming. When we wanted to do a little adventure in the city, we hopped on the complimentary hotel shuttle boat back to the main land. The ride itself on the Nile river was also a nice journey.

In Aswan, we visited the Aswan and High Dam, the Unfinished Obelisk and the Temple of Philae.
After two days of being lazy, we started our Nile Cruise excursion. We booked a 4days/3nights Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor. We stopped at Kom Ombo and Edfu along the way. Our boat was called M/S Nile Dolphin, a 5 star deluxe cruise. It was a lovely boat and the staff were very attentive. The food from breakfast to dinner was scrumptious! No weight loss here!!! We had two guides during this time. We had Ali on the first two days and then Maria on the last days. They were very nice and informative.

As we sat in the sun deck and watched the scenery float by, we couldn’t help but imagine us being Pharaohs or Queens watching the lush vegetation with the harsh desert as its background and having servants asking if we needed anything. Yeah, dream on! Cruising on the Nile was magical and it was exciting to experience the sense of living history.

Our first stop along the Nile was Kom Ombo where we visited the Temple of Kom Ombo. The temple is dedicated to two gods- the falcon god, Horus and the crocodile god, Sobek. This is where we started to understand the meanings of the hieroglyphics, other than the ones from the guide books. The stories on the walls were amazing. We took plenty of pictures of the hieroglyphics!!

The next stop was Edfu where we visited the Temple of Horus. It is the largest and best preserved Ptolemaic temple in Egypt. The great thing about this visit was that we did it in the evening. The atmosphere was mystical. Spotlights on imposing structures and columns gave it a different life than the other temples we saw. It was breathtaking. Totally enjoyed the site!

The following morning we were in Luxor. Maria toured us around the Valley of Kings, Hatshepsut Temple and Colossi of Memnon. The Valley of Kings is a burial ground for the pharaohs in the limestone hills. This is where Tutankhamun’s tomb was found. The paintings in the chambers and tombs were stunning. We were very grateful for Maria in explaining the symbolic meanings of the paintings. It is amazing to see the great lengths they used to assist the pharaohs in the afterlife. Unfortunately, since last November, photography in the area is not allowed. This was because, as in Cairo, the guards were demanding money to take pictures in the tombs. Maria said that there were so many complaints of the harassment that they imposed a no-photo ban in the area. It’s too bad that they can’t control the harassment, especially from a country that relies on tourism.

Hatshepsut Temple is huge and mind-boggling. Imbedded in the hills, it was very impressive.
In Luxor, we visited the Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. As all the temples we saw, they were both amazing to visit.

Oops, can’t write now because we have to rush off to the airport!!! Off to Tanzania!

Love,
Michelle and Craig

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Adventures in the Desert

Craig and Michelle’s thoughts:

On Oct 9th we went to the Wadi Rum Desert. It was made famous by Lawrence of Arabia. The landscape is vast and consists of a majestic desert with towering mountains. A beautiful mix of red and yellow smooth sand dunes are the bases of some of the rugged cliffs. We booked a 6 hour tour and overnight stay with the Sunset Camp Company. We chose them because it was recommended by the Lonely Planet guide book and they were easy to access by e-mail. The excursion consisted of being driven around in a 4 x 4 truck to various sites in the desert. After the exercise we had in Petra, the drive was a treat.

At the end of the tour we went to the Sunset Camp to have dinner and stay overnight. There we met a Holland group and a young woman from France. We had some interesting and funny conversations. It’s nice to listen to other peoples’ travel experiences. Also at the camp were an elderly Spanish couple, a young Israeli couple and a group from France. Before dinner, we all watched the beautiful sunset. Afterwards, we ate in a large Bedouin tent and had a delicious meal. At night you could see hundreds of stars and in the late evening the moon was so bright that you didn’t need a flashlight. The accommodations were large tents that can sleep 4-5 people. We had our own tent and they supplied the pillows, mattresses and blankets. It was very comfortable. Surprisingly, they had built showers and western flushed toilets at the camp. Quite a luxury in the desert. We had a wonderful experience at Wadi Rum.

Afterwards, we went to Aqaba. It is a city by the Red Sea. Across the sea we could see Israel and Egypt. Saudi Arabia is just a stone throw away on the left. For two days we just went snorkelling. On the first day we swam with a fairly large sea turtle!! It was amazing!! On the second day we snorkelled at the Royal Dive area and it had some beautiful fish and coral. We’re glad we brought our own snorkelling gear because the conditions of the rentals weren’t great.

On Oct 14th, we arrived in Cairo, Egypt. On our first outing we went to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. It contains a huge number of pieces from every period of ancient Egyptian history. The highlight is the artefacts from Tutankhamun’s tomb. It was amazing to see the photographs of the excavation and the layout of the tomb, and then see the collection around you. He had so many items in his tomb that his exhibit takes up half the second floor of the museum. The creepy section were the royal tombs. Each mummy is in their own glass case where the humidity and temperature is regulated. The mummies’ bodies were wrapped in the cloths they were buried in; however their skulls, hands and feet were exposed. All of them had their arms crossed over their chest which meant they were from royalty. Some of the mummies still had their hair, teeth and even their finger and toe nails.

On our second outing, we saw the Pyramids of Giza and Saqqara. These monumental structures are too amazing to describe. We just stood there just staring at the huge pyramids, trying to absorb what we were seeing. We would look at each other with huge smiles, then look at the pyramids just shaking our heads. What a magical place!! Unfortunately, the pyramids are at the edge of the city and the pollution in Cairo is terrible. When flying in you can see the thick brown smog over the city. So when you take pictures of the pyramids, there is a haze surrounding the structures. It’s difficult to see the blue sky. Seeing the Sphinx was also very exciting. Hope you like the pics!

Egypt has wonderful sites and monuments to visit and sometimes we can’t believe we’re actually here to see them. The only problem about Egypt is the harassment you get once you leave your hotel or when you visit a site. In Turkey, when asked if we needed their service and we say no, they left us alone. But in Egypt, they won’t leave your face even when you are polite to them. They are hustling for a commission by using trickery or various scams. Some are also looking for a tip or baksheek. They start out being your friend and try to assist you, then they demand money, and we mean demand! They are very aggressive! Sometimes when entering a site, you have to tip the person guarding the area. When you tip, they demand for more money and they’re not nice about it. We were aware of this behaviour before we arrived, but it’s still hard to have to deal with all the time. It also doesn’t matter if you’re in a tour group or not, the harassment effects everyone.

We went to Abu Simbel, Egypt and visited the Sun Temple of Abu Simbel and the Temple of Hathor. We stayed overnight at Abu Simbel which is rare for most tourists. Most tours drive in from Aswan early in the morning to see the sites. We chose to see the temples in the afternoon because it’s a quite time to see the area. In fact, in the beginning, we were the only ones in the Temples. It was like we were having a private tour. Really cool!! By the time we left, there were only two tour buses at the site. The temples were breathtaking. They were built to honour Ramses II and Nefertari. The carvings and the reliefs inside were amazing. It was so well preserved. There was the threat of the temples of being engulfed by Lake Nasser, so UNESCO relocated the site. The visitor centre have displays and pictures of how they did the whole process. Though there are only the two temples, we took two hours to admire them. Well worth the visit to Abu Simbel. Enjoy the pictures!

Love,
Michelle and Craig

Monday, October 12, 2009

Random Travel Info

Craig and Michelle’s thoughts:

As we wait for the bus to take us to a snorkelling site, we thought we might enter interesting tidbits for ourselves.

We wish we could take pictures of the people because they tell the story of this country. But out of respect, we must ask permission and we are reluctant to ask because we don’t want to impose or make a spectacle of them.

Our accommodations have been a variety; from staying on a boat to a Bedouin tent in the desert to a suite in a luxury hotel. Something different all the time.

In Jordan:

When walking around the cities/towns/villages, a taxi is always honking their horn, asking if you need their transport. You just have to tune them out, but when you do need them, get ready to bargain. Of all the taxis we’ve used, only two have used the meter. With the assistance of the guide book and the people in the hotel, we can get a rough estimate of the cost to get somewhere. For us, the price of a taxi is always better than joining a tour group or hiring a driver from the hotel.

When travelling between cities, we use the minibuses. You can’t be in a hurry to get somewhere because the minibuses don’t leave until it’s full. At one point we waited 45minutes before the minibus left from Amman to Petra. Also, we had to ask around at the bus station because the signs on the buses are all in Arabic. For extra money, we are taking a larger bus to get from Aqaba to Amman. They have a schedule and they assign us our seats. It costs $14 Can each for this 5 hour drive.

When travelling we get excited when we see signs showing the direction of the borders of Iraq, Saudi Arabia and Israel. We were at the border of the West Bank at one point. When on the highway, there are random road side security checks. We have to bring our passports with us all the time. It's pretty intimidating to see the huge machine guns mounted on trucks - these are rare.

We are fortunate that the heat is bearable. We wouldn’t want to be here when the temperatures are at the 40s. Egypt, here we come!

Love,
Craig and Michelle

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving!

Michelle’s thoughts:

First, we would like to say Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! We hope everyone is doing well!

Our adventure continues...

I believe the Petra visit was the highlight of our trip in Jordan. As we walked along the 1.3km Siq, the excitement built as we got closer to the famous Treasury. I could feel Craig’s excitement because sometimes I could hear him hum the Indiana Jone’s theme song and his level got louder and louder as we walked. The Siq is impressive as we walked through the canyon because at some points we felt we were being crowded in between two blocks. You must see the pictures.

The Treasury is incredible and breathtaking. We just stood there admiring the sculpted entrance that was carved out of a solid sandstone. The details highlight the craftsmanship of the people who built it. Another emotional moment.

Petra is a huge area. We did two days of seven hour hikes to see most of the area. We climbed up two steep and taxing mountains to see the High Place of Sacrifice and the Monastery. It took over an hour to climb the first site and almost two hours for the Monastery. There is the option of taking a donkey ride up for a high price, so most people climb up. At some points the path is so narrow and at the edge of a cliff, that there is a risk of falling off an unruly donkey. Also, there is the concern for the donkey's health and the way they are being treated, that we and most people decided not to ride on them.

With the relentless heat and sun and the unlevelled steps and footings, the climb wasn’t easy. We had many water breaks as we slowly hiked up. I really felt sorry for the older people who looked like they were going to pass-out. However, they held the determined look on their faces that they were going to do it on their own. I wanted to give them a reward for reaching the top. They were inspiring.

At the top of both mountains, they had wonderful views of the valley. Also, the Monastery is just as impressive as the Treasury. See our pictures. Both mountains were worth the climb. The hikes around Petra was very rewarding. I highly recommend others to visit this magical place.

Note, there are two enteries for Oct 11!

Love,
Michelle

Welcome to Jordan!

Michelle’s thoughts:

We arrived in Amman, Jordan on Oct 2nd. The scenery is very different than Istanbul, where in Amman everything is mainly a series of beige blocks and very little greenery. The city blends into the stone mountains surrounding the city. It’s very exciting to be in my first Arab country. The Arabic writing is mind-boggling and seeing some of the women covered totally in their black full body chador and hejab veil, that you can’t see their faces (even their eyes), is still a strange sight to see. However, Amman is a modern Arab city with trendy cafes and bars, elegant art galleries, western style mega malls, and most women wear western clothes, though many wear a headscarf. It’s a city embracing an international and culturally diverse vision of the future.

The people we have encountered are very friendly. They really like Canadian visitors. They say we are the nicest tourists with the big smiles! Our taxi driver was very proud that his son married a Canadian. It was funny to listen to his stories of how beautiful Canada is when he and his wife visited in the summer. They had visited Banff and Lake Louise and he excitedly showed us, on his cell phone, the bear cub they saw at the edge of a mountain. We asked if he was scared, and he replied that people should not be afraid of the cub, but for the mother bear. We just laughed!

We took a day trip to Jerash. It is one of the best examples in the Middle East of a Roman provincial city. It is wonderfully preserved with its amazing Oval Plaza, theatres and temples. Like the other ruins we visited, we try to imagine the life 2000 years ago; the centre bustling with shops and merchants, children running around the painted statues and buildings clad in marble, and the men on chariots riding through the colonnaded street. It was a pleasant site to visit because it wasn’t as crowded as Ephesus.

We also visited the Dead Sea. The lowest point on earth. The water is six times saltier than the ocean, such that you can enjoy a bizarre buoyancy of floating in the Dead Sea. Craig was barely submerged in the water, when his feet was knocked from under him and he was floating on his back! The concentration is high because of the high evaporation rate which has, over the years, led to a build-up of salts.

Of course, knowing we will never be there again, we did the touristy thing and got lathered with a mudpack from the Dead Sea. It naturally contains various minerals, which are apparently excellent for one’s health and used to polish our pores! We looked funny in our Super Hero black suits, but I must say our skin was sooo smooth afterwards! Beware when you paddle in the water, you’ll probably discover cuts you never knew you had!!

Love,
Michelle

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Happy Anniversary!

Craig and Michelle's thoughts:

Happy Anniversary! 11 years of adventures! It only gets better!!

Having a great time in Jordan!